GLIMPSES OF OLD QATAR

I first visited Qatar in 1975 when it was still a quiet backwater. This I understood was due to its old merchant families being unable to agree on who owned the prime real estate  in capital Doha. In June 1995 when Crown Prince Hamid al-Khalifa deposed his father in a bloodless coup, Doha stirred, then sprang to life. Today the flat, desert state still has no natural water—not even a stream—but vast reserves of oil and gas makes native Qataris the richest people per capita in the world. Where the highest point on the peninsula was once the top of Bedouin tent, today Qatar challenges Dubai with a plethora of stunning skyscrapers overlooking the Gulf. The following photographs taken on several visits during the 1970s-80s, are a record of Qatar’s not so distant past. I have not been back since then. The final photo by Global Insight shows how Doha looks today.

ARID LANDSCAPE IN CENTRAL QATAR MORPHS INTO TRUE DESERT IN THE SOUTH
RUINS OF AN EARLY COASTAL SETTLEMENT NEAR AL-ZUBARAH
ANCIENT WELL-HEAD NEAR AL-ZUBARAH TAPPED A SUBTERRANEAN SPRING
BEFORE OIL WAS DISCOVERED IN 1939, PEARLING WAS A SOURCE OF INCOME
FISHING DHOWS MOORED IN AL-RUWAIS 1976
BEDOUIN IN THE INTERIOR WERE STILL LIVING IN TENTS IN THE 1970s
THE WOMEN EXCELLED AT WEAVING, HERE A CAMEL SADDLE BLANKET
WASTE GAS FLARES FROM AN ONSHORE PROCESSING PLANT IN 1975
THE VAST OIL AND GAS PRODUCING FIELD OF AL-DUKHN IN WESTERN QATAR
OLD CORAL STONE HOUSES WERE BULLDOZED TO MAKE WAY FOR NEW ONES
DELICATE NAQSH PLASTER WORK IN A TRADITIONAL HOUSE
LAST OLD ‘GULF COAST’ STYLE MOSQUE ON THE NORTHERN TIP OF THE PENINSULA
HOUSE IN THE FORMER FISHING VILLAGE OF AL-WAKRAH DEMOLISHED IN 1976
AERIAL VIEW OF THE GULF COASTLINE SOUTH OF DOHA IN 1976

 

TYPICAL ARCHITECTURE IN CENTRAL DOHA
TRADER SORTS A GOOD CATCH IN DOHA’S FISH MARKET
A TRADER PUFFS ON A NARGILA IN SOUQ AL-WAQIF, CENTRAL DOHA
PROFESSIONAL SCRIBE TYPING DOCUMENTS FOR A MIGRANT WORKER, DOHA, 1975
SCENE IN THE VEGETABLE MARKET IN 1975, QATAR NOW GROWS ITS OWN PRODUCE
THE DOHA SHERATON, QATAR’S FIRST 5-STAR HOTEL OPENED IN 1979
2017, STUNNING SKYSCRAPERS LINE THE ONCE CONTESTED WATERFRONT IN DOHA

 

http://www.visitqatar.qa

 

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DON’T TAKE YOUR CAR TO THE KASBAH

“Even big trucks go through there!” said a small boy watching me try to reverse out of the kasbah in Nefta, the great date oasis in southern Tunisia.

I had long wanted to travel independently of a press group, and when the others left for London, I’d hired a car and headed inland. The coastal resorts were fine for a sun-and-sand type of holiday, but I wanted to see the djerid, the bizarre belt of oases and salt lakes strung along the roof of the Sahara.

Chott el-Djerid, south of Tozeur, is the largest salt pan in the Sahara

As a western woman, I felt it prudent to have a local with me and discreet enquiries in Tunis found an eighteen year old science student happy to come for his keep. He’d be useful in the event of a breakdown, I decided. Either the car, or my rusty French.

With Ali beside me, we set off for Dougga, the first destination on our 804 km (500 mile) round-trip of Tunisia. Fortunately Ali was not a chatterbox. On the twisting drive, he said little more than that he had six brothers and three sisters. And that none of them had ever been outside Tunis.

The soaring Capitol in the Roman city of Dougga dates from 166 CE

Ali found us a local hotel and I retired early to what would become a familiar chorus of barking dogs. My initial driving experience hadn’t been too frightening. Traffic was light although schoolchildren were a menace. When not straggling along the road, they were throwing stones across it.

From Dougga we crossed the tell, a barren region of undulating plains broken by further stunning Roman ruins in Sbeitla. I was relieved to find plenty of gas stations, but road-blocks were numerous and exceeding the 90kph speed limit in one spot, we were flagged down by police. My UK driving licence wasn’t valid because it didn’t have my photograph I was curtly informed.

Happily my Australian passport saved the situation but next time, said an officer, I would be fined four dinar ($10 at the time). And he waved us on our way.

We reached Nefta, a huge oasis sunk in a dung coloured crater studded with emerald date palms. Sounds drifted up —muezzins making the evening prayer call, dogs yapping, turkeys gobbling and a voice at my elbow urging me to take a picture of a desert fox.

The great date oasis of Nefta in southern Tunisia

When I did so for a small fee, other small boys appeared with more desert foxes and to avoid a confrontation, I drove into the kasbah.

Now this old, labyrinthine part of every Arab town is strictly for desultory strolls. At precisely ten minutes to sunset, I wedged the Renault in an alley wide enough only for a loaded donkey. I could go neither forward nor back and I did not appreciate a child’s assurance that “même les gros camions passent.”

Humiliated, I imagined spending the night outdoors, but Ali located a team of date pickers who lifted us bodily out and I drive to the ETAP, a big French-run tourist hotel overlooking the crater with a well stocked bar…

A farmer checking his date crop in Nefta oasis

Next morning we explored the oasis which counts some half million date palms. And to avoid tramping on the vegetable cultivation beneath the trees, we walked along shallow streams fed by hot and cold springs. At one point there was a fork where Ali turned left and I turned right and I came upon three Bedouin women lying in the warm waters with their black robes floating around them.

Leaving Nefta, we motored east across Chott Djerid, a huge salt lake on the edge of the Sahara whose eerie lunar-like landscape devoid of life was no place to break down.

A camel train heading home from Douz

Safely across, we reached Douz, a Beau Geste sort of town known for its weekly camel market. Judging from the lines of animals heading back to their desert camp-sites we must have just missed it. And I was amazed when Ali said it was the first time he had seen a camel, except on television.

Rugged road into Chenini, Berber village in the Tataouine district of Tunisia

Chenini, our final destination, deep in the heart of Tunisia, is inhabited by Berbers who live out of pace with the coastal towns: there is a school, yet camels still crush the olive harvest on ancient wooden presses as generations of camels have done before them.

A blindfolded camel pressing the olive harvest in Chenini

With Ali nervously cracking his knuckles, from Chenini I gunned the Renault over a rough track to Matmata, a rugged journey up to the roof of Tunisia and down again.

We found Matmata thronged with scantily clad tourists tramping being led through underground houses, past souvenir stands and its sub subterranean hotel and after a quick look we left them to it and headed north again.

Rather than repeat the coast road I had done with the press-group, I took the inland route via Zaghouan, a town set against grey crags whose freshwater springs once supplied Roman Carthage by way of an overhead aqueduct, 132 kms long (82 miles).

Ruins of a Roman aqueduct which once supplied spring water to Carthage

We had passed many hitch-hikers on our trip —farmers going to market and people waiting for a rural bus— however I had been reluctant to stop in case of an accident. Now something about an elderly Bedouin woman made me pull over.

Skirts rustling, silver bangles jangling and smelling of olives, she climbed into the back seat. She was going to Kairouan to sell her oil, she shouted at Ali in high-pitched Arabic. She had been waiting hours for a lift — God bless his wife for stopping.

Reaching Tunis again, the boy shot off leaving me wondering whether my driving had terrified him, but in London three months later, I received a Christmas card, written in wobbly English, thanking me for the best holiday of his life…

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CRUISING SLOWLY UP THE HOOGHLY

The era of cruising is upon us with more and more retirees booking holidays on gargantuan ocean liners. Competition is stiff as cruise companies try to outdo each other with waterslides, bowling alleys and robotic baristas to mix your coffee and cocktails. Such gimmicks do not appeal to me and the thought of 3000 passengers fills me with horror. Having sailed around the world on cargo ships in my younger days, my idea of a cruise is a small ship plying an inland waterway, mooring here and there to visit historic sites and observe village life. And scouring the internet I found the perfect one. A seven day cruise up the Hooghly River from Kolkata on the RV Rajmahal carrying 50 passengers accommodated in 18 twin and 4 single cabins. There was no single supplement – a bonus for the solo traveller – and as luck would have it, we were just a small group of seven accompanied by an excellent tour guide.

50 METRES LONG, THE  RV RAJMAHAL OPERATED BY ASSAM BENGAL NAVIGATION, BEGAN SERVICE ON THE HOOGHLY IN 2014.
OUR CAPTAIN AND FIRST OFFICER ON THE BRIDGE OF THE RV RAJAMAHAL
HERE WE ARE LEAVING KOLKATA WITH THE ICONIC HOWRAH BRIDGE SPANNING THE HOOGHLY. 100,000 VEHICLES AND 150,000 PEDESTRIANS CROSS IT DAILY
Tender from the Rajmahal moored in Barrackpore, Bengal
THE HOOGHLY IS SHALLOW NEAR THE RIVER BANK, SO WE TOWED A TENDER, HERE MOORED IN THE OLD BRITISH CANTONMENT OF BARRACKPORE.
OVER COCKTAILS EACH EVENING, WE HEARD OUR SIGHTSEEING ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE FOLLOWING DAY
Chandernagore, old French town on the Hooghly
A SCENE IN CHANDERNAGORE, A FORMER FRENCH POSSESSION WITH TRADITIONAL COLONIAL STYLE ARCHITECTURE AND AN 18TH CENTURY CATHOLIC CHURCH.
IN KALNA WE VISIT A UNIQUE SHIVA TEMPLE MADE UP OF 108 SHRINES. THE OUTER CIRCLE WHERE WE ARE SITTING HAS 74 AND THE INNER ONE A FURTHER 34.
IN THE VILLAGE OF MATIARI WORKERS BEAT OUT BRASS WATER POTS, TRAYS AND OTHER ITEMS USING METHODS LITTLE CHANGED FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS
VILLAGERS IN MATIARI HAVEN’T HEARD OF COAL OR WIND POWER. COW DUNG IS COLLECTED, DRIED THEN USED FOR COOKING AND WARMTH
BENGAL IS CHILLY ON WINTER MORNINGS AND SOME ANIMALS WEAR COATS. AMONG THIS GROUP WAITING FOR A DRINK WAS A SMALL BLACK GOAT WEARING A FROCK
A  RURAL WOMAN ROLLING BIDIS, THE CHEAP CIGARETTE SMOKED BY THE POOR MADE FROM TOBACCO FLAKES WRAPPED IN LEAVES FROM THE INDIAN EBONY
MINIATURE TERRACOTTA TEMPLE IN BARANAGAR CARVED WITH GODS FROM HINDU MYTHOLOGY AND SCENES OF LIFE IN THE MID-EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
VILLAGERS CROWD ONTO A FERRY TO CROSS THE HOOGHLY AT ITS BROADEST POINT. THE RAJMAHAL IS VISIBLE THROUGH THE RIVER MIST.
EITHER SIDE OFTHE HOOGHLY ISCULTIVATED WITH DATE PALMS, TURMERIC AND MUSTARD. HERE FISHERMAN LAY NETS NEAR FARAKKA WHERE I DISEMBARKED AND CAUGHT A TRAIN BACK TO KOLKATA: 560 KILOMETRES.
ASSAM BENGAL NAVIGATION OFFERS THE 7 DAY CRUISE TO FARAKKA WHERE THE HOOGHLY JOINS THE GANGES, OR A 14 DAY VOYAGE ON TO PATNA IN THE STATE OF BIHAR.
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